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Tips thread

Discussion in 'Modelling' started by kfz, Apr 25, 2007.

  1. kfz

    kfz Very Senior Member

  2. Bodston

    Bodston Little Willy

    Stick em here...

    This is a great page from the excelent missing lynx

    Missing-lynx.com - Rarities World

    Now that is useful. I had totally forgotten about that page.. thanks
  3. von Poop

    von Poop Adaministrator Admin

    This is the tips page I'm currently staring at, been meaning to try salt-chipping for a while and it's the clearest explanation I've yet seen:
    Salt Chipping and Raised Panel Line Washes

    Incidentally,It's from a useful website:
    Tools and Tips
    It's proved handy before, particularly on the Kleer/Future floor polish thing. His info on that was also the best I'd read and I now find the stuff essential.
  4. Owen

    Owen -- --- -.. MOD

    Who remembers "Stan Catchpole's Modelling Workshop." ?
  5. Bodston

    Bodston Little Willy

    Who remembers "Stan Catchpole's Modelling Workshop." ?

    Dimly. That was in Military Modelling wasn't it?
  6. Owen

    Owen -- --- -.. MOD

    Yup, it was one of the Fosten brothers.
  7. Za Rodinu

    Za Rodinu Hot air manufacturer

    He was brilliant. I think I also have a special issue with "the best of" Stan's work, unless somebody borrowed it and forgot to return it.

    Those Swannysmodels links above I found to be extremely helpful, thank you!
  8. von Poop

    von Poop Adaministrator Admin

    What a mess.:
    Salt absolutely everywhere but it looks like it's worked, perhaps should have been much more subtle, though it appears ok for a first attempt. Now for the detail, washes, rust etc. to give it a bit more life... which is where I usually muck things up.
  9. Za Rodinu

    Za Rodinu Hot air manufacturer

    Mind your blood pressure!
  10. von Poop

    von Poop Adaministrator Admin

    Here's a tip:
    If you can finally bring yourself to admit that scraping tiny plastic things is a part of your destiny, if you haven't already.... buy an Airbrush.

    For the price of a few decent 35th scale kits you get the most useful device. It's only after getting my admittedly crappy one that I began feeling even vaguely satisfied with a kit's outcome.

    Anyone got any special way of painting those sodding clear plastic parts like windscreens with the frame and wipers all moulded onto the same part? Does my head in and I just can't mask it succesfully, anyone tried those pre-cut Eduard masks at all? Not sure they do them for frames though.
  11. marcus69x

    marcus69x I love WW2 meah!!!

    Here's a tip:

    If your butter is too hard after being in the fridge that it rips the bread as you spread it, shot it in the microwave for 5-6 seconds. Spreads beautifully.;)
  12. PearlJamNoCode

    PearlJamNoCode Senior Member

    Hopefully it is acceptable to ask for tips in this thread...

    My grandfather recently purchased for me an SR-71 Blackbird and a WWI Fokker Dr.I and I would really like to a very good job on them. I was wondering would the coats turn out better (especially on the SR-71) if I used an airbrush? Is it easier to get a nice, even coat with an airbrush or better to brush it on? How expensive would a beginner's or even a basic airbrush set cost.

    Thanks in advance for any advice or information!
  13. Za Rodinu

    Za Rodinu Hot air manufacturer

    A decent airbrush will certainly improve your results, and there is a large number of quite good ones in the market. You also have to think of an air supply, which means you have to invest on air bottles or a compressor. A compressor with a moisture filter (imperative, you don't know what a sudden water drop in the air line will do!) is an investment worth a lifetime, I have had mine for 30 years, and will be ready at all times and won't fizzle out at the wrong time, and certainly is much cheaper in the long run. You can do anything with an airbrush, do go for one!

    You can buy a cheap 'brush plus a few aircans now, but you won't like it and the cans will get spent, better save the money and buy a proper airbrush and compressor later.
  14. kfz

    kfz Very Senior Member

    I was thinking od getting one.

    I allready have a small garafe compressor that I use for the bike (1.5hp, 25 litre) though its bit big for lumping around or noisy for running while the kids are in bed. Though its probably enough to get me started.

    Another thing that puts me off is the preperation and more with spraying. Ive done a bit of spraying and time actually moving paint is tiny compared to cleaning the gun or mixing paint.

    What do you recomend??

  15. von Poop

    von Poop Adaministrator Admin

    S'true, I spend more time cleaning the thing than using it, but I did buy a crappy one with compresssor 'all in' from China for £80 rather than a decent one. I'm told they clean up a lot easier if they're better quality.

    'Double action' is the most important thing, also fed paint from a cup on top rather than bottles below, Iwata make the poshest ones, a mate raves about 'em and it's the nicest I've had a go at. There's one called the Aztek 470 that seems to be a standard beginners one, gets good reviews but I haven't used one, Bod's got one I think.

    Iwata ones are on offer at the mo, still not cheap but as I cautiously bought a really cheap one not being sure I'd use it, I now definitely wish I'd gone for the more expensive ones as it's such an essential tool.
  16. Za Rodinu

    Za Rodinu Hot air manufacturer

    I agree with v.P., way to go is double action, that is, trigger controls both airflow and paint flow with two different types of motion.

    Regarding the ratio time of use / time for cleaning, yes, it may become bothersome, but if you plan ahead and have ready a lot of items for painting in one session then it becomes more favourable. Of course it is ridiculous if you have a commander's hatch ready for painting, 3 seconds spraying, 30 minutes cleaning. However if you have some 3-4 kits ready even of different colours, then of course it becomes much more rational.

    In any case, the smoothness and quality you get in spraying has nothing to do with what you can do with a common brush. Nevertheless, brushes of course still have their place, different tools for different techniques.
  17. PearlJamNoCode

    PearlJamNoCode Senior Member

    Another question... how do you professionals fill the tiny gaps that happen with models that require the joining of two sides of a fuselage?
  18. Owen

    Owen -- --- -.. MOD

    Model filler.
    Humbrol model filler, Miliput, or for you in America,
  19. von Poop

    von Poop Adaministrator Admin

    Professionals? :huh: I think we're all pretty amateur mate!
    (does mollusc qualify as he actually makes a few quid from tiny plastic things...)

    Squadron stuff's the best in a tube, there's some relatively new style fillers that I find much easier to use though, 'Mr Surfacer' & a Vallejo version that come in standard paint containers, they're more like thick paint and much easier to sand and apply.

    Another handy (and free!) filler is bits of old sprue melted down in an old pot of liquid glue, it's great for filling tiny gaps like joints on figures limbs but has to be used a little cautiously as too much of it can melt the surrounding plastic.
  20. kfz

    kfz Very Senior Member

    Another question... how do you professionals fill the tiny gaps that happen with models that require the joining of two sides of a fuselage?

    depends on the gap, how bad, I find epoxy based hardwork. Just use some fine household filler, the type of stuff you use for filling in old screw holes in wales, just use the fine stuff. It doesnt adhere to the plastic either you just scrape the excess off and run down the fill.


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